An unforgettable express train trip along China's Silk Road
Follow in Marco Polo's footsteps on a weeklong odyssey in Gansu province
LANZHOU, China -- Lovers of ancient Buddhist history, vast deserts and scenic train journeys should set their sights on the easternmost stretch of the northern Silk Road, in what is now China's Gansu province. After experiencing its historical and natural wonders firsthand, I would say this is one of the most rewarding train trips in all of Asia -- if not the very best.
Since late 2014, a high-speed rail link between Lanzhou, the capital of Gansu, and the neighboring Xinjiang Autonomous Region, in China's northwest, has made crossing this vast frontier region remarkably convenient. Passengers can travel the 1,100 kilometers from Lanzhou, in central Gansu, to Dunhuang, near the province's northwestern tip, in just four hours.
But why rush? It is far more fun to spend a week exploring the lunar-like landscapes of the Hexi Corridor, also known as the Gansu Corridor -- a narrow and largely deserted plain west of the Yellow River that runs between the Mongolian and Tibetan plateaus. As part of the northern Silk Road the corridor was once the most important trade route in northwest China.
The best time to experience this historic route is during the shoulder seasons -- the periods between peak and off-peak tourism seasons, which here means April to mid-June (excluding the very busy five-day-long celebrations for May Day) or October after the busy National Day Golden Week holiday. These periods offer fewer crowds and a welcome escape from the desert's punishing summer heat. For those willing to brave subzero temperatures, there is almost no tourism from November to March, and entry fees at many sites are reduced or waived.
Here is a five-stop itinerary for an unforgettable train journey across central and northern Gansu province.
Lanzhou
Start in Gansu's capital, a sprawling city stretched out along the Yellow River. Nestled between two mountain ranges, it sits near the geographical center of China and has been a cultural crossroads for centuries. The modern-looking Xiguan Mosque is a striking example of Han Chinese and Hui Muslim coexistence.
From there, it is a short walk to the pedestrian Zhongshan Bridge and the river's northern bank, where trails and staircases wind through the verdant White Pagoda Park, leading up Fengling Mountain to the White Pagoda Temple and its scenic viewpoints. For those who prefer not to walk, there is also a cable car.
Set aside half a day to explore the Gansu Provincial Museum, home to an invaluable array of anthropological and historical treasures. (Admission is free, but the museum is closed on Mondays.) Before catching your next train, do not miss a steaming bowl of handmade Lanzhou beef noodles -- a beloved dish across China. Ma Yo Pu, a popular spot near Zhongshan Bridge, is a local favorite.
If you choose to stay overnight, head to the Zhengning Lu Night Market, where Hui, Han and Uyghur street stalls serve everything from mutton sandwiches to goat's head soup.
Worthy side trip
Visit the remote Bingling Temple southwest of Lanzhou. You will need to rent a car and driver to reach this stunning site featuring 183 Buddhist niches, carvings and statues etched into a canyon wall over a 1,600-year period spanning China's Tang and Ming dynasties. The breathtaking centerpiece is a 27-meter seated statue of Maitreya, the future Buddha.
Where to stay
Starway Hotel is a good option between Lanzhou's main railway station and a short taxi ride to the Yellow River mountain park area.
Wuwei
Wuwei's grid of immaculately straight avenues belies its Silk Road legacy, but the modern city holds several worthwhile sites. Built in 488 A.D., the elegant 12-story brick Kumarajiva Pagoda is said to house the tongue of Kumarajiva, a Kashmir-born fourth-century monk who was one of China's greatest translators of Buddhist sutras. Another highlight is the Ming-era Confucius Temple, where the pavilions and eaves showcase classic Chinese architecture.
You can see more at the Wuwei Municipal Museum, home to artifacts ranging from the Bronze Age to Silk Road relics. Among the highlights are rare Tang dynasty (618-907) pottery horses and woodcarvings. Do not miss the second-floor hall dedicated to the Tiantishan Grottoes, where many original Buddhist statues are preserved.
The grottoes lie 58 km south of Wuwei near the Huangyanghe Reservoir and make an excellent day trip. Infrequent buses are available, but renting a driver is a more efficient option. The main draw is a 15-meter-tall, 1,600-year-old Shakyamuni Buddha.
Back in town, stop by the small Xixia Museum to see the Western Xia Monument -- a stele carved with texts in the Xixia and Han scripts. It was used to translate the Tangut language, spoken by tribes that controlled Silk Road trade routes between 1038 and 1227.
Where to Stay
Wuwei Jinwu International Hotel is among the best four-star properties in town and offers help with tours to the Tiantishan grottoes.
Zhangye
A midway stop on this journey, the laid-back city of Zhangye was once a key Silk Road outpost -- legend says that the Italian explorer Marco Polo lived here for over a year around 1274.
The city's most striking landmark lies inside what is said to be the birthplace of the Mongol emperor Kublai Khan (1215-1294): the beautifully preserved wooden Big Buddha Temple. Dating to 1098, the building houses an astonishing 35-meter-long reclining Buddha -- the largest of its kind in China and one of the biggest clay-and-wood Buddha statues in Asia.
Zhangye's other major draws are located outside the city, and nearly every hotel or guesthouse can help you join a shared tour. The most famous is the Zhangye Danxia National Geopark -- a swirling lunar landscape of yellow, white, orange and maroon rock formations shaped by mineral erosion. It is one of few such desert formations in China, and while it is best to avoid the weekend and holiday crowds, it is absolutely worth the trip.
About 80 km south of the city, do not miss the Maati Si (Horse Hoof Monastery) Buddhist grottoes, carved into the Qilian Mountains between the fifth and 14th centuries. Named for a legendary hoofprint left by a heavenly horse, the site offers a thrilling experience: cliffside balconies, twisting staircases and narrow, tunnel-like passages that require a bit of squeezing to get through.
Entry to the grottoes is 75 yuan ($10.45), but connoisseurs of Buddhist art should consider a guided visit to the endangered Jinta Temple, located 30 km away, which costs 350 yuan. Its central pillar is adorned with Buddhist apsaras and bodhisattvas -- a masterpiece of cave art not to be missed.
Where to stay
Silk Road Travelers Hostel offers spotless dormitories and private rooms, along with great-value tours to local sights. It is tucked away at the intersection of Minzhu Donglu and Xinjian Street.
Jiayuguan
It is a 90-minute high-speed train ride to Jiayuguan, the historic western terminus of China's Great Wall. The Ming dynasty (1368-1644) fort there, built in 1373, is one of the most iconic sights along the Silk Road. A tourist shuttle drops visitors at the fort's eastern Gate of Enlightenment; from there you can walk atop the inner ramparts and exit through the western Gate of Conciliation. Both gates date to 1506.
On clear days, the 17-meter-high towers at each gate are framed by a striking backdrop -- a narrow pass between the snowcapped Qilian Mountains and the dark ridges of the Mazong Shan range.
Entry tickets to the fort are valid for three days and include visits to two nearby sections of the Great Wall. About 8 km north of the fort, the Overhanging Great Wall -- originally built in 1539 and reconstructed in 1987 -- requires a taxi ride. There is a rewarding uphill hike to a watchtower perched above the desert, with sweeping views of original, timeworn sections of the Great Wall winding along barren ridges.
About 20 km to the southwest, a wind-eroded chunk of packed earth atop a 56-meter cliff marks what is believed to be the true western end of the Great Wall: the First Beacon Platform.
Where to stay
Jinglong Hotel offers spacious, clean rooms and courteous service, all within walking distance of Night Market Street.
Dunhuang
It is another one-and-a-half-hour bullet train ride from Jiayuguan to Dunhuang, the westernmost point of the Hexi Corridor and a historic refuge for weary Silk Road travelers. This compact, orderly city -- lined with poplar trees -- retains its ancient desert-sanctuary ambiance but is also a well-oiled tourist hub.
The nearby Mogao Grottoes, some of the most famous Buddhist cave temples in Asia, the towering sand dunes of Mingsha Shan, and the otherworldly rock formations of Yadan National Park, 180 km northwest in the Gobi Desert, remain perennial favorites for domestic tourists.
Just 6 km south of town, the Mingsha Shan dunes may be crowded and overpriced, but their sheer scale makes them worth a visit. With a bit of extra legwork, climb to the top for sweeping views of undulating desert and green poplars.
The Mogao caves are among the world's most significant collections of Buddhist art. Hewn into a barren cliff at the edge of the desert, the 492 caves are adorned with murals and statues spanning centuries and dynasties. At their height during the Tang dynasty, the grottoes housed 18 monasteries, over 1,400 monks and nuns, and countless artists, calligraphers and translators.
Highlights include the Hidden Library Cave (Cave 17), a massive 35.5-meter Buddha inside a seven-story pagoda (Cave 96), and a 15-meter reclining Buddha in Cave 148, along with a rotating selection of other caves open to the public.
Worthy side trip
About 180 km south of Dunhuang in Guazhou county, the 40 or so caves of the Yulin Grottoes face each other across a narrow canyon. The Buddhist art here spans 1,500 years, from the Northern Wei dynasty (386-535) to the Qing dynasty (1644-1912), and the site is both cheaper to visit and blissfully free of selfie-snapping crowds.
The easiest way to get there is to join a daily multistop tour from Dunhuang, which also includes the Tomb of the Western Jin Dynasty, the ruins of Suoyang (a former Silk Road outpost, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site), and several striking sculptures set in the Gobi Desert, including the mirage-like Boundless and Children of the Earth, a giant sleeping baby.
Where to Stay
Dunhuang Oasis Theme Hotel has four floors of excellent-value private rooms featuring plush beds, rain showers and large writing desks.
Getting to the starting point
Lanzhou Zhongchuan International Airport offers good connections to cities across China, as well as a few international destinations. From Lanzhou, travelers can explore the region in about a week using high-speed daily trains linking the city to Wuwei, Zhangye, Jiayuguan and Dunhuang.
Slower overnight trains still operate along this route as well -- the most comfortable option is the daily evening train that departs Dunhuang around 6 p.m. and arrives in Lanzhou by around 9 a.m.
Marco Ferrarese is a contributing writer.